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 | Droving - Mr. William Stewart, the well known and respected shepherd in the employ of the Messrs. Dempsters has arrived at headquarters from their station at Esperance Bay.
He has been eight months en route (having started on the 1st November.) He left with 1092 sheep and landed (as he terms it) 1027, sound in mind and limb and in prime condition. Stewart's services must be invaluable to the firm.
He travelled across that great expanse of bush, without a compass, without a hut keeper or native, only his dog and gun as companions. He states that he crossed some of the finest corn growing and grassy country in Western Australia, and no poison. - Nov 1877 - Esperance Western Australia |
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 | Droving - It was a joyful day when Mr. E. Dempster (under whose care I was placed as a lad to gain experience in farming on the Buckland Estate) told me that, if I wished, I could join a party of station hands and shearers who were engaged for work on the Esperance Bay Station in 1874. We were to travel overland with pack and saddle horses. Our party consisted of seven members, including a native horse boy named Curly, seven riding horses, and five pack horses. I remember that there was no little excitement when we were preparing for the journey, as many of the horses had to be broken to their work.
We left Buckland on September 5, 1874. About half-an-hour after we started on our journey one of our party, who rather fancied himself as a rough rider, was thrown from his steed. The horse bucked, causing the saddle to turn round under its flank, and the rider to fall underneath. The animal bucked right over him for some seconds. Fortunately no damage was done, except to the riders feelings. After we left Buckland our route lay through Northam to Wilberforce, and thence through York and Beverley to Brookton, after a which we left the main road, and followed sandalwood tracks as far as the head of the Palinup (or Salt) River.
At that time there ,was very little settlement on the line of country over which we traveled, as we were well east of most of the homesteads of that time, the only ones I remember being Maplestead and those of Messrs. W.Lukin, Andrews, Quarterman, Treasures, and Moir Bros., at the head of the Pallinup.. After we left Moir Bros. station we struck south until we reached Hassells track from the Jerramungup sheep station to Albany. This we followed to the station, after which we turned about south-east across country to Dempsters crossing on the Phillips River, and thence east to Esperance where we arrived 21 days after our departure from Buckland.
As Messrs. Dempster ,Bros. had made an agreement with the Fremantle butchers to deliver one thousand sheep about the middle of July at Fremantle, Mr. Andrew Dempster, who was then manager, gave me the choice between going out to help to open up their runs at Fraser Range, and returning to Fremantle with the sheep, under William Stewart, a well-known and capable drover. The natives had been very troublesome at the Fraser Range a few months before, and had so scared a party of well sinkers that they departed, leaving everything behind them except two horses and a dray, which they abandoned on the road, arriving at Esperance Bay in a very exhausted state. I did not think it advisable to go to such a place with men who had such a dread of natives, so I decided to take the risks attached to an overland journey to Fremantle with stock.
The members of our party were the drover Stewart, myself, a native and , his wife, one riding and two pack horses, a kangaroo dog, and two sheepdogs. In our kit we had a most useful pair of tin water breakers holding about six gallons each, and made to fit the pack horses sides. I mention this because they helped to save the situation on more than one occasion when we were pressed for want of water in a water less country such as that stretching from the Phillips River to the mouth of the Gardiner. We left Esperance Bay on October 12, 1874, with a flock of about 1,050 two and four tooth wethers off the shears, and only in moderate condition, under instructions from the manager to top them up if possible during the journey so that they might. be delivered in prime condition at Fremantle during July, 1875.
Leaving the Bay, we travelled parallel with the coast to Menbeenup , and thence to the head of Stokes Inlet, at the mouth of the Young River. We then followed the river almost to its source, afterwards striking across country to the eastern branch of the Jerdacartup, or Oldfield River, to a fine grass patch, and thence to the head of the western branch, to another nice stretch of grass country called Naanup. We stayed about two weeks at this place, as the feed was splendid for stock. Our food supply having begun to run out, I had to return with the native as a guide to Esperance for a further supply, the distance being about 80 miles across country.
We had a rather trying time on our journey towards Esperance , between our camp and the Young River, as we had to penetrate dense marlock thickets when approaching the river. It took us about sixteen hours to travel about 25 miles, though we pushed forward all the time. However, we got through without mishap, and on the return journey we did not have so much trouble, as we had daylight instead of darkness when pushing our way through the thickets. By the way, I can still recall with amusement that when leaving Esperance we were armed with a very old tower musket, stamped with the Tower brand, and having huge nipples which had to be fitted with very large percussion caps commonly known as policeman's hats from their shape, they being like the hats worn by the police a century ago.
Our native was very successful in shooting game with this old weapon , but it was a fair terror to kick when loaded with swan-drop shot. I generally let him do the shooting, my weapon of defence being a very ancient six barrelled pepper bor revolver. It was absolutely useless for shooting at more than six paces. After our return to camp we did not move for a few days, and then we continued our journey down the Jerdacartup to the coast, after which we turned to the westward, following Dempsters overland track towards Albany, crossing the Steere River, and arriving eventually at the Phillips River.
We made our camp at Dempsters Crossing, close under East Mount Barren, at the beginning of December. From this camp I had to return to Esperance for more food supplies a distance of about 100 miles. On this journey I travelled alone, and I shall never forget the feeling of utter loneliness when night camping at the "Horse Rocks," after the first day s journey from the river. I did not sleep very well that night, as my boyish fancies conjured up all the things which might happen during the night. After that I was quite resigned to the thought of camping alone, and imaginary foes and dangers did not trouble me any more.
On my return to the Phillips River, the first news I heard was that our native had cleared out. As he had reached the boundary of his tribal district, he was frightened to go further. So we two white men were left to do the remainder of our journey with out further help and the very worst part of the country was now before us. We Left the Phillips River on September 21, for a start had to push our sheep through a dense marlock thicket for about a mile, this thicket having a considerable amount of rock poison growing all through it. However, we managed to get through without loss, camping on the high ridge above the river on that night not very far from Middle Mount Barren.
This range of mountains deserves its name, as it remains in my memory as the most barren, gloomy looking range which it has been my lot to see even more so than those of the North West coast of Western Australia. Leaving our camp on the ridge, we dipped into the valley through which the Hammersley River approaches the sea, a barren poor country covered with dense thickets and poison plants, the water in the river itself being quite salt during the warmer summer months. But, luckily, we struck an old native well, and with the aid of a shovel which we had picked up on our way we cleaned out the well, which had been partly filled in, and succeeded in getting enough water to give our horses a drink, and to last us for three or four days. If it had not been for the finding of this well I think that we should have had to retrace our steps as far as the Steere River, as the water supply had almost dried up when we left the Phillips River.
Our camp at the Hammersley was a most dangerous one for stock, being surrounded by poison, with only a strip of grass land about two hundred yards wide, and about half a mile in length, to pasture the sheep on. We had to watch them day and night whilst we remained there. We spent our Christmas at this lively spot. For the festive occasion the old drover made a plum pudding, the ingredients of which we brought from Esperance. The pudding, though rather greasy, was appreciated , after three months on damper, kangaroo and mutton. Leaving the Hammersley we pushed on with as much speed as possible through some poison country to Yates Swamp, about fifteen miles from the river, and to our great delight, we found a little water, which enabled us to water our famishing sheep.
Leaving on the next day, we reached another Yates patch. These grass patches are a perfect Godsend to travelling stock in such a barren country. From that place I had to retrace my steps with the horses to the Yates Swamp for water for ourselves, horses, and dogs, and it was on this part of the journey that we realised the value of our water breakers. We moved on next day to an other grass patch, still having to return to the swamp for water. While pushing the stock on the two following days, I had to make two return journeys to the swamp for water.
The next move was a serious matter for us. as we knew that in front was a dense thicket, about a mile wide, and full of poison and beyond that for some distance the country was devoid of fresh water. Our sheep, having been without water for some days, were beginning to show symptoms of thirst. Next day we were out in turns for half a day clearing a passage through the thicket (with a tomahawk) about a chain wide, cutting down all the poison we could see. On the following day we started to force our way with the sheep through the thicket, and, after three hours hard driving, during which we had to cut up the flock into mobs of 200 or 300, we rushed. them through with,dogs, one driving; while the other remained with the rest of the flock. However, we managed to get through, losing only two. After we had got through we struck the Copper Mine Creek, which contained no fresh water, so I had to push on ahead. and I found fresh water at the mouth of the Fitzgerald.
We camped that night. At the Copper Mine where the country had been prospected for copper some years before, and a few.small shafts were still to be seen on the hill side above the old mining camp. At this place I saw a larger mob of dingoes than it has been my lot to see before or since. Our dogs ran down one of the mob, and killed it with my assistance. Except for the prick ears, it was exactly like a smooth-haired collie, being black and white and tan probably the cross progeny of the miners dogs.
After we had passed Dempsters Inlet and Fitzgeralds Estuary, our troubles, with one exception, were ended, as far as the sheep were concerned, the exception being the want of water, from which they suffered considerably for some days. We had also some trouble in getting down to the mouth of the rivers to water our horses, as the banks on. both sides were very treacherous, and there were dense thickets down to the very edge.
One of our horses fell down one of the banks into a quick sand, and it was only by good luck that he managed to scramble out. His hind quarters had sunk up to the stump of his tail, but, having his forefeet doubled underneath him, he managed, with my help on the bridle rein, to struggle out. After that we were very careful to keep them as far away as possible from the edge of the banks.
To show the trouble that we had when watering our horses, I may mention that the water was procurable only in the sand at the mouth of the rivers, and very often within a few yards of the salt water. By digging down about 2ft. a pitiful supply was obtained, but, if taken to a greater depth, the water turned brackish. We had to water the horses, using a quart pannikin, which when filled was emptied into leather, saddle-bags, from which the horses drank. This was a rather slow and tedious process, because the sand kept falling in and filling up the holes.
After we reached the Gardener River we were in good pastoral country, there being plenty of feed and water for sheep and horses. Passing Mr. J. Welsteads homestead at Bremer Bay, we rested our flock for a while to put them in good heart after their long and trying journey from the Phillips River. At Welsteads we purchased the first vegetables we had seen for five months, and we appreciated the change of diet from kangaroo, mutton, and damper.
Leaving Welsteads, we travelled our sheep very slowly towards the Pallinup, taking advantage of feed for the sheep being plentiful. While we were on our journey we were visited by Mr. W. Dempster, who was on his way to Esperance, in the place of Mr. E. Dempster, who had met with an accident, and from him we heard the news of Sir John Forrests reception in Adelaide after his overland trip through Central Australia also that Mr. C. D. Price had just started to survey as far as Eucla the overland telegraph line from Albany to Adelaide, two memorable events in the history of this State.
We reached the mouth of the Pallinup on March 1, and camped on the shores of this fine estuary, remaining there for a coup!e of weeks. This sheet of water was covered with innumerable water fowl, including hundreds of swans, black duck, and teal. as well as numbers of sea birds. From this camp I had to go to Cape Riche, Mr. A. Moirs station, to procure further supplies. We continued our journey up the Pallinup to The Sandalwood, Mr. George Moirs station, where we received a kind welcome from Mr. Moir.
Leaving "The Sandalwood," we turned our faces to the west again, following the road to Albany as far as "The Pass," through the Stirling Range. The scenery was very impressive here. The mountains on both sides are supposed to be the highest in the State. Their peaks are nearly always obscured with clouds, except in very fine weather. Leaving "The Pass," and turning away to the north-west to reach the Kalgan River as close to Kendenup station as possible, we had to face some of the worst country for droving on the whole of our journey, as we had to pass through dense prickly scrub, and then high thickets full of poison, and quite water less at that time of the year.
Our sheep and horses were two days and a half without water, and our dogs and ourselves about 36 hours. I remember that on the evening before we reached the Kalgan, just as darkness was setting in, we struck the head of a small creek leading into the river. After consulting the drover, I pushed on with the horses to try to find some water, feeling my way in the darkness along the bed of the creek. I came suddenly upon a small pool of water, but noticed that the horses made no at tempt to drink. So, jumping off my horse, I dipped my hand in the water, and drank a little. I found it was very salty, so taking the packs off the horses I let them go, knowing that they would find water before morning if there were any within reasonable distance.
By the time I had camped and made a fire, Stewart and the sheep had arrived. So we camped for the night, hoping to reach water early next morning. It was a thirsty night for ourselves and the dogs. Early next morning I followed the horse tracks. down the creek, in a very short time reached the Kalgan, and discovered the horses at a water-hole in the bed of the river. Travelling up the river, we reached Kendenup, where Mr. Hassells manager gave us a hearty welcome.
Kendenup at that time was the scene of A Gold mining Venture. and when we passed through the manager of the mine was having a shaft sunk on the creek just below the homestead, ,and at the time seemed very sanguine of success, but the venture failed. Leaving Kendendp, we crossed the Perth - Albany road, and followed the Upper Blackwood road, past Williams, Warburtons. and Steeres stations.
Striking the Bridgetown Bunbury main road at the late Mr. Mark Padburys farm, we followed it right through to Bunbury, passing Australind, and thence to Pinjarrah. Then we followed the coast road to Rockingham, where we pastured our sheep for about three weeks, delivering them eventually at Messrs. Pearse Bros. yards about the middle of July, 1875.
We had been about nine months covering A Journey of 700 Miles, and had made a record of droving as far as loss was concerned. We were only eight short in our tally-caused by deaths from poison-not including what we killed for our own use. We started with 1,050 sheep and delivered 1.028.
The whole country traversed from Esperance to Bunbury was in a great degree, patchy poison land, and we came in contact with eight varieties of this noxious plant, which made the work of droving very risky, requiring constant care on the part of the drover. We met a great many natives on our trip to Esperance, but they were mostly civilised or semi-civilised. On the return journey we met but few bush blacks, the largest mob being at the Phillips River, and they were not troublesome, except that we had to watch our camp closely to prevent them from taking our food supplies.
We had some trouble in protecting our sheep from dingoes through out the Journey, especially at Rockingham, where there were a number of crossbreeds. On one occasion they mauled our dogs very badly. Between Esperance and the Phillips River game, such as kangaroo, emu; tamar, and marnine (wallaby), and on the swamps and lakes, ducks, snipe, and swans were plentiful. Swamp snakes (karrimon) were also very numerous, and during the two and a half months journey from Esperance our party killed over forty. I do not think that they are very venomous, but a few rock snakes which we dispatched were, according to the natives, very deadly; and I noticed that they were always given a wide berth when seen by the blacks.
At the present day the trip overland to Esperance is a mere holiday jaunt partly by rail and the rest by motor car. But in 1874 it was considered to be quite a serious bush trip, as only horses were available. Since that time I have had a good deal of experience in sheep droving in many parts of Western Australia, but none has apealed to me like the trip along the lonely south coast from Esperance to the Stirling Range in company with,the rugged but kindly old Scottish drover, William Stewart, long gone to his rest. - 5 Sep 1874 - Buckland Estate Western Australia |
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Droving
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